Week eleven – Costa blanca

So our first week here was a little ropey, unfortunately week two wasn’t really much better. After really struggling both climbing and sleeping wise with the sport crags in the area we decided to head to a small bouldering area a bit further south. We’d read online about where to stay and it sounded like vans were fairly common. So we figured it would be a good place to head for a few easy days in terms of accommodation. We arrived to find no vans at all at the recommended area, in fact it didn’t really look like any kind of parking at all. It was near a few houses with some pretty angry sounding dogs, so we decided against it, found the nearest campsite and spent the night there in the hopes that we’d be able to sort ourselves out in the day light.

The next day we decided to at least try and find the climbing, see what it was like and then decide what we we’re going to do.

At this point we were really not enjoying Costa blanca at all so it was a bit of luck that we found  another van at the parking for the bouldering.

They had chairs out and all sorts, so that was a good sign. They popped out to say hello pretty much as soon as we arrived. They were from eastern Germany and spoke really good English which was a great help. They gave us a few pointers about the climbing and let us know they’d spoken to some local climber and they’d been told it was fine to stay here in the vans. Finally we’d bumped into other climbers in a van, the first time since we arrived in Costa blanca.


The climbing was like nothing we’d ever experienced. There was almost no friction to the rock at all, this meant that a lot of body tention was required even on the easier problems. So we spend the rest of the day slipping off problems and just constantly talking about how weird the climbing here is.

We spent the next few days trying different bits and pieces, we had no guide book and the online information only told us the first three routes on a boulder, and the picture had no lines on it, which made working out what you’re climbing difficult. We enjoyed it though. 


After this we decided to start heading back up towards Valencia but trying a few other places. We got a little more lucky this time.

We arrived at a crag call Merin, which had a decent sized parking area and there were a few vans there when we arrived. We climbed a few bits on our first day and got talking to another British couple who gave us loads of advice on where to stay and which crags were the least polished.

They were spending the night at the crag, so we did too. We actually ended up staying there for about ten days, but that’s a story for the next post.

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